Road to Verde Hot Springs

The road is in decent condition, in dry weather even a low-clearance passenger car can make the trip, if care is taken. The washboards and sharp turns add an element of excitement to the drive, often skirting large drop-offs as the road winds along canyon walls.  There are places where exposed rocks in the roadway warrant cautious driving in low clearance vehicles, and heavier vehicles should be prepared for the long downgrades and their strenuous effect on brakes.

After roughly 13 miles, the route to the Verde Hot Springs turns right onto FR 502; a sign directs traffic toward the Verde River.

Childs Power Plant (closed)

The road follows a pipeline which was used to divert water over 7 miles of rocky, steep terrain from Fossil Creek to the Childs Power Plant, Arizona's first hydro-electric plant, built in 1909. To the left, Fossil Creek now runs freely through its canyon, after over 90 years of diversion. Just before the road reaches its zenith is Stehr Lake, an oasis of Cottonwood and grassland with azure sky reflecting on its surface, constructed to catch excess water before it reached Childs.

Once 502 begins to descend toward the vibrant green-blue of the Verde River, the power plant soon becomes visible: a collection of silver grey wires and framework, and a single palm tree. Winding past an old 'surge tank' on the hillside and down toward the river, you will reach a fork in the road: a left turn here will deposit the traveler at a serene campground and the hot springs trail head. An official sign stating "Nudity Prohibited" has been altered with the hand scrawled addition of a 'not' in between the official words, reflecting the mindset of many of the hot spring's visitors. The parking area is about 19.5 miles from the original turn-off of Hwy 260.

River Crossing to Hot Springs

The trailhead leads out of the upriver side of the campground, immediately crossing a small, wooden bridge that skirts the abandoned powerhouse. The discarded water from Fossil Creek used to run underfoot, but is dry now. The trail cuts back toward the river and follows its bank about 1/4 mile before climbing an embankment to meet with an old dirt road, bordered by Desert Christmas Cactus, delicate mesquite, and an old cattle holding pen.

Once this road drops alongside the river, a large expanse of mineral-coated rock is visible to the left, along with two palm trees on the opposite bank. A small trail takes off from the road, marked with stone cairns. Weaving through the Cottonwoods, the trail heads toward the river crossing just upstream of the resort ruins, just over one mile from the campground. The piquant aroma of the river mixes with a slightly sulfuric smell, intimating the hot springs' proximity. Just above the crossing lies a wide spot in the river, where a family of sleek River Otter often play.

In the winter months, the Verde River is frigid and powerful, and the necessary crossing is in sharp contrast to the calmly bubbling waters in the hot spring pools.

Once across the river, an obvious trail leads downstream toward the hot springs. Situated above a deep pool in the river, the main hot springs are located in the foundation of an old resort that burned to the ground in the 1940’s. Suspended between a large rock face and cement retaining walls, the hot water is a beautiful jade green in daylight.

Verde River's rushing water

The whole hot springs area is alive with the voices of its visitors, even when none are physically present. Paintings, mosaics, poems and messages adorn the rock and cement walls, reflecting the diverse range of people who have enjoyed these springs. The walls of the stone building are a canvas of vibrant color, and it is well worth one's time to get lost in the artwork which covers them; from a nude rendition of the entire Simpson family; to a poem describing the reactions of visitors to the springs; to a collection of religious and political opinions. Something will surely strike your fancy.

Verde River Hot Springs

Basking in these springs, the surrounding hills provide an immaculate view. Numerous birds sweep over the river's surface, rock strata break through the juniper hillsides, and the quiet river weaves below, providing a pleasant sonic background. These pristine springs are so beautiful partially because the visitors are respectful; everyone carries away their trash when they leave.

The place is equally striking in the evening. The sun sets, bathing the canyon in the reflected rose and mango light, silhouetting the surrounding hills. At night time this quiet oasis is often lit by a myriad of delicate candles. Inside the small rock building, whose roof is now open to the stars, is another tub of hot water, only a few feet deep, and a wood-burning stove.

The springs are most certainly worthy of a trip, and the nearby campground provides an excellent opportunity for an extended visit. In summer months, the weather may be too hot to enjoy the springs during the daytime. However, the river offers a refreshing break from the scorching summer sun. In winter the nights are chilly, and the river itself viciously icy--but the crossing is short. The reward: the exhilarating combination of cold air and wonderfully warm hot springs. 

Verde River Hot Springs

Recently, the area around the hot springs has become increasingly popular.  Although most visitors are friendly and informative, you may want to schedule a midweek trip if you prefer more solitude.  You’ll want to bring plenty of water, towels, water shoes or sturdy sandals to cross the river and firewood if you plan to camp.  Although there is an outhouse at the campground, there is no drinking water or trash service. 

Roadside Attractions:

Camp Verde Swap Meet

Camp Verde Swap Meet:  A few miles before the turn off for FR 708 a weekly swap meet takes place on highway 260.  Every Saturday and Sunday a collection of sundry items are available for the travelers perusal. Watch for the plywood sign on the right side of the road just as the eastbound lanes are merging together.

Montezuma Castle and Montezuma Well: Located just north of Camp Verde off the I-17, offering beautiful glimpses into the Verde Valley’s ancient past.   The Montezuma Castle National Monument requires an entrance fee to see the stunning cliff dwellings built by the Sinagua people.  Protected by rock outcroppings and fringed by Beaver Creek, this makes for a gorgeous side trip.  Montezuma Well is fed by two natural springs, providing a wealth of water for the surrounding region.  Interpretive signs at both locations share information on past habitation, flora, and fauna.  Watch for signs along I-17.

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