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Valley
of the Gods B&B (Verandah) |
Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast
By Beverly Lehnhardt
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Sedona.biz
Mexican Hat, Utah - Romantic. Secluded.
Rustic yet comfortable. Breathtaking views. All describe the
out-of-the-way bed and breakfast situated near the base of the
1,100-foot cliff of Cedar Mesa. Located between the small towns of
Bluff and Mexican Hat, Utah, and overlooking the Valley of the Gods
in southeast Utah’s Four Corners region, the B&B is a short distance off
route 261 on the 17-mile dirt road that meanders through the valley
(click map).
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Open
Spaces |
Aptly named Valley of
the Gods Bed & Breakfast, this historic stone ranch house is the
only home within the 360,000 acre Cedar Mesa Cultural and
Recreational Management Area. The location provides for an easy
drive to many of the region’s most spectacular natural attractions:
Monument Valley; Lake Powell; Mesa Verde; Arches; and Canyonlands
National Parks; Navajo National Monument; Hovenweep, N.M.; and
Natural Bridges, N.M. In most of these areas, raft trips, horseback
riding, mountain biking, day hiking, backpacking, and camping are
available.
Overlooking the
impressive Valley of the Gods—which is a miniature version of
Monument Valley—the B&B has breathtaking scenery in every
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Wildlife |
direction and a
75-foot covered verandah outfitted with numerous rocking chairs from
which to enjoy it. The vast landscape dotted with spires, towers,
buttes, and distant mountains is home to many types of
wildlife—often spied and easily photographed.
The fiery sunsets and
star-studded nighttime skies are so exceptional as to make the most
reticent wax poetic.
Off the grid, the home
is completely solar- and wind-powered and the owners haul water from
Mexican Hat—about eight miles away—3-4 times a week to top off the
2,700-gallon underground cistern. Filtered water is available for
drinking. A wood-burning living room
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Valley
of the Gods B&B (Living Room) |
fireplace keeps the chill at
bay on cool evenings while oil lamps cast a warm, intimate glow
throughout the house. The décor is scrupulously southwest with
tasteful displays of woven baskets, rugs, and pottery; and books on the
state of Utah, Monument Valley, and history abound.
With only 4 guest
rooms, the B&B can accommodate 8-10 guests at a time, keeping the
atmosphere friendly and very cozy. Its rustic elegance attracts a
steady and, surprisingly, international clientele searching for
‘something different off the beaten path.’
There are three guest
rooms in the main house, each with a quilt-covered bed and its own
bathroom boasting a stone-lined shower; one guest room is a separate
little “house” a short distance across the driveway.
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Valley
of the Gods B&B (West Room) |
The West Room
has its own ‘conservatory’ and a private entrance; the small room
with two glass walls, many hanging and potted plants, and an
inviting wicker sofa provides the perfect setting for afternoon
reading or nighttime stargazing.
Thoughtful touches including
individually wrapped chocolates in a small candy jar at the head of
the bed; shampoo and body gel in the shower; and extra pillows and
blankets for those chilly nights show considerate attentiveness and
appreciation for the clientele. Smoking is only allowed outside and
children and pets are accepted solely by prior arrangement, making
this a more adult and/or couple-oriented destination.
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Valley
of the Gods B&B (Conservatory) |
The house itself was
built from large blocks of lime- and sandstone and the 2-foot-thick
walls insulate against high summer temperatures and cold winter
winds. Huge wooden beams salvaged from an old oil-drilling rig
support the ceiling while large, comfortable sofas and chairs, throw
rugs, and small tables add character and charm to the generous
living room.
Breakfast at the B&B
is quite an affair. During cooler or infrequently inclement weather,
the meal is served at the large dining room table that seats all
guests comfortably. In the summer months, the meal is served
out-of-doors on the enormous porch where champagne flutes filled
with chilled fruit juice lend a truly elegant touch.
Lots of coffee;
a meal that might include Ancestral Pueblo Eggs with ham and cheese;
lightly seasoned black beans with sautéed squash, corn, and green
onions; fresh fruit; and homemade cranberry almond scones with your
choice of butter, jam, or marmalade provide a tasty and very hearty
start to whatever the day might bring. The meal also encourages a
comfortable camaraderie among the guests, sparking friendships among
people from all over the world whose paths may not have crossed
elsewhere.
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Gary
Dorgan |
Owners Gary and Claire
Dorgan had some experience with hotel management prior to purchasing
the Valley of the Gods B&B. Born in Kalamazoo, Michigan, Gary was
raised in Phoenix and received his Recreation Resource Management
degree from Northern Arizona University (NAU).
Claire’s family lived
in Flagstaff and owned Arizona Mountain Inn where Gary worked off
and on during his college years. In fact, Gary was the first ‘boy’
Claire hired on her maintenance and cleaning crew—they learned how
to run the business from the ground up.
In 1983, Gary found
work as a park ranger at Hite on Lake Powell. While living there,
they often drove through Valley of the Gods, falling in love with
its vast, remote grandeur and the stone ranch house with its
enviable location.From Lake Powell, the
Dorgans moved to Sedona’s Oak Creek Canyon in 1987 where Gary was a
park ranger at Slide Rock State Park; Claire worked at a gift shop
in Sedona. Claire sees a distinct similarity between the beauty of
Sedona as-it-used-to-be and the present-day isolation and grandeur
of Valley of the Gods.
Eventually, they
returned to Flagstaff to run the AZ Mountain Inn for Claire’s
family. However, when the family announced they intended to expand
the resort, Gary and Claire decided they’d like to venture out on
their own and make their own business decisions. Ironically, the
expansion never took place and the inn was later sold.About the same time
that Gary and Claire were making life-altering decisions, two
men from Florida that had purchased the ranch house in Valley of the
Gods sent notices to all area resorts and hotels of their intention
to sell. They had bought the house in 1991 and had done extensive
remodeling, opening as a bed and breakfast in 1993. The B&B’s
remoteness, the area’s incredible beauty, and a great article in
The New York Times had made the B&B a popular get-away
destination after only three years.
The timing was
perfect. A week after receiving the ‘for sale’ notice, Gary and
Claire bought the property and in January of 1996 moved into the
ranch house. Due to the B&B’s already solid popularity, their first
guests arrived the first week the Dorgans owned it!
They did a great deal
of remodeling, making the necessary improvements and enhancements
while leaving the basics intact, infusing it with love, their innate
kindness, and a large part of themselves in the process—and intend
to do even more—but will never expand the house or put up more
buildings. Growing up in the Southwest has taught the Dorgans that
their most precious commodities are the seclusion, the peacefulness,
and the solitude.
There are lots of stories connected to the area—its remoteness attracting many
unsavory characters—but the Dorgans take the oral stories with a grain of salt,
knowing they are most often greatly embellished. They prefer, instead, to
research the area’s factual history and have many books on hand for inquisitive
guests’ edification.Over the years, repeat business has increased to the point where making advance
reservations is a must. With a chuckle, Gary says, “December through February is
our slow time but anyone visiting the valley and needing overnight
accommodations should definitely call ahead. Who knows…we just might close the
place down and take a vacation of our own!”
Both Gary’s and
Claire’s fathers loved the Valley of the Gods and visited the B&B as
often as possible. The rest of their families have been there at
least once and they all think Gary and Claire are crazy but,
according to Claire, “They knew that long before we came
here!”
Although the Dorgans
are truly located in the middle of absolutely nowhere, Gary and
Claire do not feel removed from the world. The world comes to them
in the form of their guests. And even though business slows down in
the winter, they believe it is the most wonderful time of the year—a
time when they can best enjoy their quiet little piece of
wilderness…Room rates run $100+
per night and include breakfast. Dinner may be arranged ahead of
time for an additional cost.
To find out more about
Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast, go to
www.valleyofthegods.cjb.net or call 970-749-1164 for
reservations or room availability.
History of the Ranch House
The original ranch
house was constructed in 1933 by the grandsons of Mormon John Doyle Lee (of
Lee’s Ferry) and his 17 th
wife, Emma. Brothers Clarence and William and William’s wife Mary
had initially homesteaded property in Monument Valley and had run a
cattle ranch there for over 7 years. But in the late 1920’s, they
were told they had to leave Monument Valley because the government
annexed the Ute Strip to the reservation and all of that land became
Navajo country. The Lee’s were told they could then homestead north
of the San Juan River.
Using local lime- and
sandstone and lumber salvaged from old oil rigs, the Lees
constructed a comfortable ranch house on their new homestead for
their own use. When the movie industry arrived in the area shortly
thereafter, the brothers often worked as extras and hired hands to
make a few additional dollars. They also began the first “dude
ranch” at the house they had built north of the San Juan in Valley
of the Gods.
Eventually, Floridians
Gail Goeren and Lee Dick purchased the ranch house and poured much
money into its renovation. They opened the Valley of the Gods Bed &
Breakfast in 1993 and sold it to Gary and Claire Dorgan in 1996.
In spite of the towering cliffs, Lee's Ferry
later was found to be the only place between Moab, Utah, and
Needles, California, where a wagon could be driven to both sides of
the Colorado River. Originally, this location was called the "Paria
Crossing," because the Paria River (usually a muddy or dried-up
creek) enters the Colorado at that point. Lee's Ferry received its
present name after John Doyle Lee was asked by Mormon church
officials to establish and operate a ferry that could be used by
church emigrants traveling south on colonizing missions. [Back]
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