TUCSON, Ariz. - As the winter doldrums begin to take hold and that beautiful early snowfall starts turning to gray sludge, I find myself fantasizing about sunny places. While I enjoy vacationing at beach resorts, this year I decided that I wanted to exercise my mind as well as my body, which is why I chose Tucson, a surprising city that reflects its Western desert heritage in a most sophisticated way.

What struck me first about this Arizona metropolis is how prominent and accessible the mountains are that surround Tucson. To the north, I could see the rugged Santa Catalina Mountains where many resorts are nestled in the foothills. To the east, I watched the sun rise over the rolling Rincon Mountains while the imposing range of Santa Rita Mountains was due south of town. Those fabled multicolored southwestern sunsets can be seen over the Tortolita Mountains in the northwest and behind the spiky Tucson Mountains in the west.

What makes this natural setting almost surreal are the saguaro cactus sentinels that stud the landscape like a silent regiment of thousands of soldiers. Tucsonans are proud to point out that the only place in the world where the saguaro is indigenous is in the Sonoran Desert bridging northern Mexico and southern Arizona.

If you love to hike, as I do, there are some wonderful trails, particularly in Sabino Canyon and in the Ventana Canyon Wilderness. And if you want to get up close and personal with those giant, multiarmed cactuses, try the nature trails in the Saguaro National Park on the west side of town.

I had been told that the area surrounding Tucson is considered the astronomy capital of the world due to the exceptionally clear night skies and the absence of lights in the vast desert. My choice was the Kitt Peak National Observatory built atop 6,875-foot Kitt Peak, located 56 miles southwest of Tucson. Although there are daytime guided tours, I highly recommend the nighttime stargazing program that requires reservations from four to eight weeks in advance.

Kitt Peak is home to the world's largest collection of research telescopes, including 23 optical telescopes and two radio telescopes representing dozens of astronomical research institutions. The program starts at sunset - be sure to allow about an hour and a half of driving time from central Tucson. The top of the mountain is approximately 20 degrees cooler than Tucson, and I advise you to dress warmly, as the domes are not heated.

After a light meal of sandwiches, cookies and fruit, each of us received a star chart and we began our search for constellations with binoculars. The resident astronomers were extremely helpful with their inspired discussion on the science of observing stars. Of course, the evening's highlight was observing deep-sky wonders with one of the giant telescopes. I learned to distinguish between globular and open star clusters, and I had the thrill of seeing nebulae, planets and distant galaxies. Besides experiencing one of the most memorable evenings ever, my after-dark visit to Kitt Peak ignited my now-enormous interest in astronomy.

With my feet planted solidly on terra firma, I also wanted to learn more about the Tucson environment, which led me to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. Allow a minimum of three hours here as the exhibits are truly amazing. This enlightened place is a celebrated zoo, a natural history museum and a world-class botanical garden, all in one giant venue. Within the museum grounds you can see more than 300 animal species and 1,200 varieties of plants. Since there are almost two miles of paths across 21 acres of gorgeous desert, I must advise you to take along plenty of sunscreen, wear a hat and comfortable walking shoes.

In astonishingly natural settings that re-create the landscape of the Sonoran Desert, I find myself coming face to face with mountain lions, bobcats, javelinas (cousins of wild boars), black bears, desert bighorn sheep, prairie dogs and silver-tailed foxes. Other exhibits include snakes, scorpions, tarantulas and lizards, including the endangered Gila monster, as well as sanctuaries for native birds and a separate aviary for hummingbirds. I also liked the earth sciences area, which explains the natural evolution of Arizona and displays an extraordinary collection of regional minerals and gemstones. Committed to researching and protecting the land, plants and animals of the Sonoran Desert, this phenomenal institution inspires everyone to live in harmony with the natural world through newfound appreciation and understanding.

IF YOU GO

I stayed at the newly refurbished Loews Ventana Canyon Resort (7000 North Resort Dr., 520-299-2020, loewshotels.com/en/Hotels/Ventana-Canyon-Resort/Overview.aspx, which overlooks the city from the Santa Catalina foothills. The plush rooms have every amenity, bathtubs are big enough for two, and the service throughout is professional and friendly. There are two Tom Fazio-designed golf courses, a tennis center and a great spa.

I had an incredible dinner in the hotel's Ventana Room, which included caramelized scallops, Kobe beefsteak in a Burgundy sauce and bittersweet chocolate mousse cake.

Norm Chandler Fox is a freelance travel writer.

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