So what's up on that plateau, anyway?

The most impressive geological feature in the Colorado Plateau is the Grand Canyon that was created 5 to 6 million years ago by the cutting erosion of the Colorado River into soft sedimentary rock as the Colorado Plateau rose.

However, along with the Grand Canyon and largest population of ponderosa pines in the United States, sits glistening azure lakes hidden among the juniper and pine forests awaiting migrating birds, wildlife, adventurous hikers, fishers, campers and boaters.  Most of these lakes emerge from their surrounding landscape suddenly, and are not visible from even a few miles away.  Some, like Mormon Lake, occur naturally, while many others, such as Blue Ridge Reservoir, result from the damming of canyons or lower lying regions.  These lakes are refreshing contrasts to a generally arid landscape and offer a wide array of adventures.

Although there are numerous lakes resting in the Mogollon Rim, this article will highlight some of the more readily accessible ones.  These lakes can be accessed from the winding path of Lake Mary Road between its origin in Flagstaff to the termination at hwy 87.   From Sedona, Follow 89-A north to Flagstaff, the first stoplight marks the beginning of Lake Mary Road.  Turn right here to explore the lakes as described in the sequence below.

Lower Lake Mary

A short distance south of Flagstaff on Lake Mary Road (FH-3), our first lake emerges from gentle pine forests.  Lower Lake Mary’s water level varies greatly with rainfall.  In extreme cases, the shallow basin fills and water creeps into the day-use area, while other times the lake is little more than a small pond surrounded by a field of thick grass.  Catfish and trout attract fishers, while the day-use area is a beautiful place for a picnic. Wide roads and scenic views make this area good for biking.

As the waters from Lower Lake Mary grow shallow to the southeast, FR 128 breaks off FH-3 and climbs up the adjacent mesa toward an astronomical observatory.  The reeds and marshland surrounding Marshall Lake provide an excellent environment for birds of all types, including osprey, bald eagles, and duck.  A portion of the Arizona Trail connects the lake to nearby Sandy’s Canyon, and continues into the heart of Walnut Canyon.  Set a short distance back from the lake, primitive campsites allow visitors to stay in the cool pine forest free of charge.

Lake Marshall

Still only 12 miles south of Flagstaff on FH-3, the next expanse of aquamarine water unfolds and caresses the highway’s edge for a few miles.  Upper Lake Mary is larger and more reliably full than its northwestern neighbor.  Developed campgrounds, picnic areas, and fishing ramps make this lake very accessible.  Like Lower Lake Mary, it is also easily accessible year round from Lake Mary Road which parallels their winding shores. This lake provides Flagstaff with drinking water, caters to boats of all shapes and sizes, and is exquisitely beautiful.

FE 82-E branches off of FH-3 about 17 miles south of Flagstaff and winds uphill for four paved miles before reaching a well maintained gravel road encircling the lake and providing access to camping and fishing.  Ashurst Lake sits atop a lava flow known as Anderson Mesa and is surrounded by breezy meadows, tough juniper, and views of the Peaks.  Trout fishing, water sports, and camping bring visitors up to this stunning country.  A string of semi-seasonal lakes spread across the mesa, and a network of dirt roads meander back and forth toward Marshall and Kinnikinick Lakes.

Mormon Lake Overlook (photo by Dawson Henderson)

Almost 30 miles from Flagstaff, Arizona’s largest naturally occurring lake fills a wide valley to the right of FH-3.  Mormon Lake is wide and shallow, and varies greatly with rainfall.  The wind can be fierce here, like the other lakes, and it is not uncommon to see multiple birds catching the currents along the rock walls to the northeast of the lake.  Kites are also popular here.  Paved roads wrap around the lake, leading to a lodge, campgrounds, hiking trails and scenic views.  FR 90 and Lake Mary Rd. encircle the lake, the former passes the campgrounds and lodge, while offering views of brilliant, reflected sky atop Mormon Lake’s shallow waters.   Midway along the lake, an enticing side trip boasting adventure and scenery can be found by following FR 125 left off of FH-3.

Kinnicknick Lake

Kinnikinick Lake is surrounded by basalt boulders and sparse juniper forests.  Camping, boating, picnicking, and wildlife viewing coax visitors over 9 miles of dirt and gravel roads to high prairie lands.  Clam shells, golden grasses, and large birds await explorers on the remote shores of Kinnikinick.  An interlude of golden meadowlands and emerald pine forests mark the portion of FH-3 leading farther south to the next lakes.

38 miles from Flagstaff, FR 213 diverges to the left, and after six miles of forest travel a split onto FR 213-A shortly leads to the next lake’s day-use area.  Stoneman Lake, a circular oasis deep within the forest, is bordered by public and private land.  Fishing, boating, picnicking, and viewing wildlife are favorite pastimes usually originating from the day-use area on the lake’s northern shore.  Oak and Pine forests frame this sapphire lake.

Long Lake

For those intrepid travelers hungry for some four-wheeling adventure, this next lake can be reached by a small dirt road departing south from Kinnikinick Lake.  For the rest of us, FR 211 departs eastward from FH-3 about 48 miles south of Flagstaff and continues for eight gravel miles to another left turn onto FR 82.  Maps speak of a place named ‘Lost Eden’ set near this remote junction, providing plenty of intriguing conversation and stipulation for the final 12 miles to the lake’s day-use area.  The grasslands surrounding Long Lake are peppered with other lakes, however Long Lake is the largest and easiest to reach.  Hiking trails spread through the pine forests south of the lakes, while boating, fishing, and primitive camping are big around the water.  The extended shore line provides plenty of solitude and silence, and the facilities are well maintained.

Blue Ridge Reservoir

Heading south on FR 82 once again to the junction of FR 211, travelers may choose to head left for roughly three miles and connect to paved FR 87 in pursuit of the final lake.  Five miles after turning right onto FR 87 and weaving along crimson rock cliffs and through varied pine and oak forests, FR 715 breaks away to the left.  Six well maintained gravel miles later brings the traveler along precipitous slopes and past unfolding views to the boat ramp and parking area.  Blue Ridge Reservoir has a distinctly different feel from the rest of the lakes included in this article.  The reservoir was created in 1963 to supply regions farther south with water to compensate for native Salt River water used in copper mining near Morenci, Ariz.  Picturesque rock ledges and strata cradle the deep blue waters, while pine and cacti cling to the steep canyon walls.  Around each bend delightful vistas unfold, offering a beautiful backdrop for boating, camping, fishing, and hiking.  There are developed campgrounds along the upper ridges, and many locations along the lake are excellent for primitive camping as well.  Due to the steeply descending canyon walls, only a few sections of the lake are accessible by automobile.  The best way to explore Blue Ridge Reservoir is certainly by boat.

Many of these lakes can be enjoyed throughout the seasons.  If you have ever seen the moon-lit shores of Lake Mary after a fresh snow, or the white capped San Francisco Peaks looming above Ashurst Lake’s deep blue water, you know how amazing these lakes are in the colder months.  Summer storms, spring wildflowers, the golden glow of autumn, and the resilient winter sun all cast varied and spectacular light on these little liquid jewels. 

Returning to Sedona:

Many dirt and gravel roads connect the northern portion of Lake Mary Rd. to 1-17, allowing a connection to Schnebly Hill Road in the warmer months. There are also paved options:  From Stoneman Lake, 213 turns to pavement a few miles west of the lake and connects to 1-17 about six miles later.  From this point, a short eight mile jog to the south on the interstate connects to the hwy 179 exit.  From Blue Ridge reservoir, either head back up to Stoneman Lake, or follow 87 west 16 miles to the junction with the 260, which reaches the interstate at Camp Verde about 35 miles later. Follow 1-17 12 miles north to 179 or continue on 260 12 more miles to Cottonwood and turn right onto 89-A.

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