Williams, AZ - Who knew a train robbery could be so much fun? I didn't until I rode the Grand Canyon Railway from the Grand Canyon to Williams, Ariz., following in the footsteps of such notable passengers as Teddy Roosevelt, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Clark Gable, Warren Buffet and Bill Gates.

The trip is like a journey in time, back to 1901 when the railway made its first runs. Though the 65-mile, two-hour-15-minute ride is 45 minutes faster and costs a bit more than the $3.95 that was charged back then, the parlor car I rode in, with its plush couches and access to the open rear platform, was just like those used by the old-time railroad barons.

Those train tycoons probably drank whisky; I sipped wine and snacked on veggies and dip, and cheese and crackers. But we viewed the same mile after rolling mile of changing landscapes outside: Pinyon-Juniper woodlands, sagebrush, Ponderosa pine forests, spruce, aspen, Douglas fir and high desert. The wildlife along the way is varied too, with everything from elk, deer and antelope to bald eagles, Peregrine falcons and red-tailed hawks. Mountain lions, bobcats and black bears also live along this route, though sightings are not so common.

To brighten up the journey, dapper Col. Jim Garvey, who bears a slight resemblance to Buffalo Bill Cody, strode through the car, strumming his guitar and rendering cowboy classics like "Rawhide" and "They Call the Wind Maria" in a deep, rich baritone.

But the real excitement began with the sound of gunfire. Racing to the rear platform along with a half dozen other passengers, I saw masked men riding toward us at a furious gallop. The train slowed to a stop; no doubt that's what trains did when outlaws announced a holdup and started shooting things up to show they meant business.

A bunch of desperados - the Cataract Creek Gang - boarded us, waving their guns and demanding our valuables. Yet in spite of their snarls and threats, my fellow passengers were not worried. One shouted out: "I never knew outlaws wore glasses."

The sunglass-wearing outlaw shouted back: "We've come to rob you! Look scared, darn it!"

We tried to oblige. But instead of valuables, we all produced cameras and started snapping photos of the bandits. More banter followed. And then Marshal John B. Goodemore appeared. Wearing a white hat and sporting a handsome mustache, the marshal was straight out of central casting. I later learned that he actually had been a lawman with a hankering for travel, and that there were 15 cowboys, some of them retired officers of the law, in the Cataract Creek Gang, traveling all over the state and creating Wild West fun at its best.

More fun was in store when the train arrived at the Williams depot, which was built in 1908 and looks pretty much as it did then. A brass band wearing the blue uniforms of the Union Army gave us a rousing musical welcome.

Founded in 1880, Williams was named for the famous trapper, scout and mountain man Old Bill Williams. A statue of Old Bill stands tall at Monument Park on the west side of the city. Williams has the distinction of being the last town to have its part of Route 66 bypassed.

A few fellow passengers and I boarded a horse and wagon and headed over to Wild West Junction for some hearty grub. The Historic Downtown District covers six square blocks and includes the Grand Canyon Railway Depot and Hotel.

On our way, we saw 19th and early 20th century buildings that brought to life the once-bawdy frontier town where real cowboys hung out in bordellos and saloons. We passed a couple of old timers a-settin' on the front porch of a frame house that had rooms to let. I heard one of them say: "Some folks you just don't want to see nekkid."

As I couldn't eavesdrop to learn more, I moved along to my destination, The Typhoon Saloon and Museum. There a sign instructed me to "Beware of Pickpockets and Loose Women," and though I encountered neither, the hearty barbecue ribs I consumed probably should have carried a cholesterol alert.

After dinner, I visited the Territorial Museum, which houses an old barbershop, a saloon, lots of movie memorabilia, posters and Zane Grey books. One of the stars of the museum was a working saddle by G.S. Garcia, the foremost saddle maker of the late 19th and early 20th centuries (Will Rogers, Teddy Roosevelt and scores of other celebrities rode on them).

If I'd been inclined, I could have dressed up in period clothes and had an old-time photo taken at Wild West Junction, but I preferred to visit the blacksmith shop, the Drovers Hotel, which features a movie memorabilia room, Jules of the West, a shop that sells cowboy memorabilia and other unique souvenirs, and the only working jail in Williams.

The jail would come in handy when, after dark, the Cataract Creek Gang showed up again to shoot up the place and cause general mayhem. You guessed it, Marshal Goodemore showed up just in time to take care of the lot. The show was the perfect ending to a fun-filled day.

IF YOU GO

Grand Canyon Railway operates daily train service between Williams and the Grand Canyon. There are different classes of service: Budd, Pullman, Club, First, Dome and Parlor. Parlor Class rides, the most expensive, start at $170, but there are a number of money-saving packages that include the train ride, an overnight stay at the GCR Hotel in Williams, breakfast and dinner. It's also possible to include an overnight stay at the Grand Canyon as well as a tour of the Grand Canyon. For more information, visit www.thetrain.com or call 800-THE-TRAIN.

For information about Wild West Junction, visit www.wildwestjunction.com or call 928-635-4512. The outdoor shootouts take place through Labor Day, but there are other entertainment events.

Lillian Africano is a freelance travel writer.

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