ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. - It's no secret Albuquerque is best known for hot air ballooning. A splash and dash in the Rio Grande River is nothing short of inspirational. The basket drops down, almost touching the water, then gently lifts skyward. Did it, loved it and tried not to brag about it too much.

As once-in-a-lifetime as that may be, there's more to the city than wafting over the treetops - much more. Winter in the Southwest provides moderate temperatures and a distinct change of scenery, at least if you hail from anywhere east of the Mississippi.

Start in the area known as Old Town for your first heady dose of Southwestern atmosphere. This part of Albuquerque has vast amounts of character, such a contrast to my Midwest town. Different is good!

Old Town is home to shops and restaurants co-mingling with residences. Serene hidden patios and intimate gardens await discovery around every corner. Much of the architecture is Pueblo-Spanish or adobe.

Browsing the art galleries of Old Town could fill a day. Indian art and pottery are popular, along with jewelry and fine art. I picked up a colorful tile depicting the Native American figure called Kokopelli, as an addition to my small collection.

Organized walking tours of Old Town are another option.

As a history lover, I'm consistently drawn to churches small and large. San Felipe de Neri Cathedral stands in the heart of Old Town and has been in continuous use for nearly 300 years.

If you still have the urge to see the white stuff, skiing is possible at nearby Sandia Peak, about 30 minutes from Albuquerque. Sandia is situated in the Cibola National Forest and suitable for all experience levels, including novice. The ski area has 30 trails, serviced by four chairlifts and a surface lift.

Those wishing to reach the ski areas from the western slope of the Sandia Mountains can do so by riding the aerial tramway. This tram has been called "a monument to man over mountain" and is celebrated in its own right. No matter how many trams I've ridden, that first airborne swing always provides a thrill.

The tram company traveled to Switzerland to find a qualified engineer for such a daunting project. Due to rugged terrain, helicopters were used to airlift men and materials to the construction zone. After construction and much testing, the first riders reached Sandia Peak in May of 1966.

This is powder skiing, warm, dry and usually sunny. It's possible to ride the tram to the top for a morning of skiing before playing golf or tennis in the city in the afternoon. How's that for getting the best of both worlds?

You need not miss out on ballooning if you visit Albuquerque in the winter. Although not well known, ballooning is also an amazing experience in the cooler months.

Because the air is colder and sunrise is later, the launch time is not quite so early in the morning. The balloons rise easily against the cool air. Once back on terra firma, you can visit the balloon museum to extend the experience.

One of our three balloons landed in a Starbucks parking lot and it was 9:30 in the morning - perfect!

The Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Museum is still relatively new, having opened its doors in 2005. For the sake of the pronunciation-challenged, it's often referred to as just The Balloon Museum. In the age of "Saturday Night Fever" and extra-wide lapels, specifically 1978, Albuquerque balloonists Ben Abruzzo and Maxie Anderson, together with partner Larry Newman, made balloon history. These gentlemen completed the first nonstop crossing of the Atlantic Ocean by gas balloon.

The $12 million building dominates the skyline of Balloon Fiesta Park and is the world's premiere facility dedicated to this sport. It features a fine collection of ballooning equipment and memorabilia. The name was suggested as a special commemoration for the two men.

You'll have abundant opportunities to eat regional cuisine in Albuquerque. Point me in the direction of a good Mexican restaurant and I'm content. It might stem from my younger days, watching my mom eat hot tamales from a jar. Occasionally I still see those tamales at the grocery store, tubes of white swimming in red.

Imagine my joy upon discovering the Mexican restaurant offers a buffet - the luxury of sampling! The aroma of La Fonda del Bosque caught my attention the minute we entered the door. There's no mistaking the pungent smell of cumin.

Housed in the National Hispanic Cultural Center in Albuquerque, La Fonda has received glowing reviews from foodies and has my not-quite-so-expert stamp of approval. NHCC is a many-faceted facility, offering a performing arts complex, a place to study genealogy, traveling exhibits and much more.

The lunch buffet at La Fonda is only the beginning or the ending, depending on what time of day you visit. The NHCC is an institution dedicated to preservation and advancement of Hispanic culture. Since opening in 2000, the center has grown to become more of a campus, rather than just a center.

The location is part of Albuquerque's oldest neighborhood, called Barelas. From both a historic and geographic standpoint, the NHCC couldn't be in a more appropriate place. Barelas and the Rio Grande lie along the Camino Royal, or Royal Road, which was one of the first trade routes between Mexico City and the New World.

IF YOU GO

For more detailed information, visit these Web sites:

- www.itsatrip.org.

- www.rainbowryders.com.

- www.sandiapeak.com.

- www.nhccnm.org.

Kathryn Lemmon is a freelance travel writer.

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